CheckeredFloor.com

 

Installation Tips-For reference only

 

Here is a handy link for the Certified Floor Covering Installers. Contact info for a CERTIFIED installer near you.  Just click the link and add your zip and a 

qualified installer list will generate. 

http://www.cfi-installers.com/  (note: we are not affiliated or compensated by this site)

 

 

We strongly recommend using a trained, professional installer for the best long-term performance
of our flooring.  Always follow all safety guidelines when installing any flooring product, to protect 
yourself and others. 

 
You can install your flooring in 3 ways: Fully Adhered; Loose Laid; or Perimeter-Fastened.

Comparing OUR Fiberglass Vinyl to Felt-Backed Vinyl

The uppermost layers of both fiberglass vinyl and felt-backed vinyl are similar – with different performance levels of our top urethane layer that resists stains, scuffs, and scratches. 
Traditional felt-backed vinyl requires permanent glue to adhere to the subfloor, while fiberglass backing is installed as a loose lay or modified loose lay – meaning you use a releasable pressure-sensitive glue (or no glue in some instances) that is not permanent and can be pulled up and laid back down if necessary.
Also, the unique qualities of fiberglass enable the vinyl floor to lay flat without curling at the edges or buckling. Felt floors will curl at the edges, unless they are secured with a permanent adhesive. 
Fiberglass vinyl floors can be installed on grade or below grade anywhere in your home. They’re particularly recommended for basements that can experience dampness.
Another important feature related to backing is dimensional stability. Fiberglass vinyl won’t shrink, warp, or change size after exposure to wetness, or crack after repeated handling.
Modified Loose-Lay Offers Design Flexibility
A modified loose-lay installation opens up many decorating options. It also makes it easier to install a new floor yourself if you’re a DIYer – and it allows you the freedom to change out your floor more frequently.

 

3 WAYS:

1. FULLY ADHERED: 

The Fully Adhered technique has a long history of proven success. It’s the best option in areas subjected
to heavy foot or rolling traffic, or in more complex job sites with multiple alcove drops, center islands,
or when intricate net-fit cutting is required.

Acceptable substrates are clean, dry, smooth, and include both wood panel and concrete underfloors.

This technique becomes an installer’s only option if:
– the vinyl roll is distorted or not rolled face-out on a 4" core
– the backing becomes kinked, cracked, or severely folded during installation due to improper storage 

2. LOOSE LAY: 

Loose Laid is the easiest of the 3 installation methods. Using this method, the vinyl is fit just slightly
short of all vertical surfaces (approximately 1/16" away) so that it lies completely flat with no fullness
or “pinch” points. This installation method makes removal of the floor at the end of its life cycle remarkably easy.

I Loose-Laid floors can be installed over many substrates that are unacceptable for Fully Adhered products
(particleboard, chipboard, flakeboard, lightweight concrete).

I This non-adhered installation method allows the material to be rolled back to correct any
substrate problems and is easily removed when required.

I Although the floor is referred to as Loose Laid, V-31 adhesive is necessary at all seams and around any floor vents.

I Restrictive and transition moldings are required. 

I Loose Lay should not be used if the job site:
– is larger than two full drops of material
– is greater than 30' in length
– is exceptionally “cut up” and complex

I Loose Lay is not an option if:
– the roll is distorted
– the roll is not rolled face-out
– the felt becomes kinked, cracked, or severely folded during installation 

3. PERIMETER-FASTENED:

In a Perimeter-Fastened installation, the sheet vinyl is fastened to an acceptable substrate around the perimeter of the work area and at any product seams. This installation method makes removal of the floor at the end of its life cycle easy.

I Using this option, the vinyl can be installed over many types of substrates that may not be appropriate for a Fully Adhered installation (particleboard, chipboard, flakeboard, lightweight concrete).

I Perimeter-Fastened installations require that the product be adhered with a 4" to 6" band of V-31 adhesive applied with a 1/16" x 1/16" x 1/16" notched trowel around the perimeter and at any seams.

I If the substrate is wood, the product can be fastened using staples.

The staples should:
– have at least a
1/2" crown
– be of sufficient length to fully seat into the underfloor panels
– be spaced every 2" around the perimeter of the room
– be applied after the adhesive when a combination of staples and adhesive is being used

I Restrictive moldings (cover base, quarter round, etc.) and transition moldings must be used in a Perimeter-Fastened installation.

I Perimeter-Fastened is not an option if:

  • –  The job site and material are not conditioned and climate controlled. This is particularly important in

    new construction.

  • –  the roll is distorted

  • –  the roll is not rolled face-out

  • –  the felt becomes kinked, cracked, or severely folded during installation

    Whichever option an installer chooses, it’s important to:

I Employ good resilient sheet flooring work practices regarding the careful handling and fitting of the products.

I Be vigilant in underfloor selection and preparation.
I Install in indoor climate-controlled (temperature and humidity) environments.  

 

Here is a handy link for the Certified Floor Covering Installers. Contact info for an installer near you:

http://www.cfi-installers.com/  (note: we are not affiliated or compensated by this site)

The vinyl is bonded to the subfloor with an adhesive that is spread on the entire floor. If using the flooring in a trailer we recommend trimming the ramp and sides with 2" aluminum pieces to adhere the vinyl extra securely to the floor.  Plus the aluminum makes it easier to get your vehicle or toys in and out of the trailer on the  ramp.  We do not sell the trim pieces, but are readily available at metal shops. In general, resilient flooring should be installed after all other finishing or construction trade operations, including painting, have been completed. Vinyl floors can be installed over wood, concrete or, in some cases, existing flooring. However, sub-flooring should be clean, smooth, of good quality and as flat as possible. After installation, rolling loads and heavy traffic should be avoided until the adhesive sets hard. Plywood or hardboard panels must be used to move furniture, appliances or equipment onto a recently installed vinyl floor. Rests, glides or casters are recommended for permanent use under heavy furniture and appliances. The following is a brief reference guide for installation.

Please contact a professional before installing your vinyl floor.

Have your vinyl roll acclimate to the room or trailer before installing.  Install in a room temperature of not less than 65 F  and no greater than 95 F for at least 48 hours previous to, during and 48 hours after installation or until flooring has become thoroughly bonded to the subfloor. Additionally, the humidity of the storage area should be controlled and maintained between 30% and 70%.  Install to a dry subfloor with the temperature approximately the same as the air in the room. Flooring materials, adhesives and accessories at the same temperature as the air in the room as well. (In winter, flooring should be stored in a warm room for at least 48 hours before installation.) Make sure the room is well ventilated to carry off any excess moisture in the air. Low relative humidity is advised.  Unless the above conditions can be met, it would be adviseable to delay the job and wait for better conditions. 


You can install our flooring over hydroponic radiant-heated flooring systems, provided the surface temperature of the system does not exceed 90 degrees F.  Before installing flooring products over newly-constructed radiant heating systems, operate the system at maximum capacity to force any residual moisture from the cementitious topping of the radiant heating system.  Then set the thermostat to a comfortable room temperature for the installation. For the smoothest job and best results, always condition flooring, adhesives, and installation accessories to the job site temperature before beginning the installation.  There are many in-floor warming systems being introduced, while most of these systems are compatible with rigid products such as ceramic or hardwood, they are generally unsuitable with resilient flooring products.


Here is more installation information taken from the DIY website:

 

Margin of Error: Within 1/4" at edges, exact at seams

Most Common Mistakes

  1. When estimating the amount of sheet vinyl, forgetting to account for pattern matching at a seam.
  2. Unrolling sheet vinyl too early, or waiting too long to lay it, thereby causing it to shrink before it is permanently laid in place.
  3. Neglecting to use flooring materials with the compatible adhesive and appropriate trowel at seams.
  4. If you are applying a seamed floor, not laying the smaller section first.

Full Spread Sheet Vinyl Flooring

Carry your roll of cut vinyl flooring into the room in which it will be installed. Carefully unroll and position it over the clean, dry floor, matching up the landmarks you indicated on your template.

Carefully assess your cutting job. If any additional trimming needs to be done, this is the time to do it before any adhesives have been applied.

One of the most important things about working with adhesives is that you use the correct type of applicator or trowel and adhesive. The adhesive should be applied to as much of the floor as will allow you to properly place the sheet vinyl and give you some working and adjusting room.

We recommend using a multi purpose (water based) vinyl adhesive for most applications. However, in high moisture areas we do recommend using a Pressure Sensitive (solvent based) adhesive.  Adhesive is readily available at most home improvement big box stores.If you are applying a seamed floor, lay the smaller section first. Follow the instructions for seams as described below.

Installing Seams

The first part of the new floor to be secured is the seam This is done by applying the adhesive along the floor between the two sections of flooring. First, gently fold back one section and temporarily tape it back out of the way. Draw a pencil line along the edge of the other section to mark the seam line. Gently fold back the second section and tape it out of the way.

Apply a band of adhesive to the underlying floor surface along the seamline, using the recommended notched tooth metal trowel. Remember that the old floor needs to be dean and free of wax or oil.

Some require only a 3” band (1 1/2” on either side of the pencil line); others may require as much as 6” of adhesive 3” on either side of the seam.

Lay one piece into the adhesive, and then the other. Make sure the edges of the vinyl are tight against each other. If you don't, you'll get a condition called ledging where one side rides up higher than the other. Dirt can build up here and draw attention to the seam.

Now go over the seam with a rolling pin or seam roller, to press the vinyl into the adhesive and eliminate ledging.

To prevent moisture from getting under the floor along this seam, use a special seam sealer kit. We recommend a FLEX SEAM SEALER for our checkered flooring.  Read and follow the instructions carefully. When applying solvent, hold the bottle at the proper angle and don’t wipe up any of the excess. It will dissolve, and you won’t see it after a short time. Give the seam a few hours to set up before walking on it.

 

if you have done a careful job of outlining the odd and irregular shapes of the floor, and of transferring the template to the right side of the flooring, getting the sheet floor to fit should present no problems. If possible or necessary, remove the toilet if needed, and run the flooring underneath. Once the flooring is in place, it's recommended you go over it with a rolling pin or a 100-lb. roller. This assures the floor’s getting a good bond with the adhesive. Roll from the center of the floor out toward the edges, to get rid of all the air bubbles and waves.